Miter Saw Station Plans Free
This DIY miter saw bench is a beauty. Whitney Gainer, half of the DIY team, made it so she could get more use out of her prized miter saw. Follow the step-by-step instructions, and soon you’ll have a sturdy table like this for your own workshop. (Look for a link to a downloadable version of the tutorial at the end of this how-to.) It might even give you a reason to buy a miter saw if you don’t already have one!We often get asked what our favorite, most-used tool is. I always answer the same It’s my miter saw! I have had it on a stand for the last year or so, and decided it was time to build it a new home.Check out my DIY Miter Saw Bench!This is a really simple build with the right tools! Let’s get started!
Supply List for the DIY Miter Saw Bench(I have linked to the exact products I used). 1 – – You can also go with MDF, but it’s much heavier!. 7 –. 2 –. 1 –.
Nov 8, 2015 - And wait til you see the upgrades! You can see the full build plans on my Mobile Miter Saw Station post over at FixThisBuildThat.com.
1 –. (I like to use the self-tapping kind).Step 1Your first step is building four legs. These are made from joining a 2×4 and a 2×6 piece together. I cut each of these pieces at 27 ½” long.I added three 1 ½” pocket holes to one side of each 2×4 piece.
- Plans for a Mobile Miter Saw Station. A basic version built out of common plywood can be made for right around $100. But upgrades such as better plywood, larger casters, dust collection, an automated vacuum switch, and an aftermarket fence and stop system can make this build a workshop masterpiece.
- The Ultimate Miter Saw Station Step 1: Phase 1 - Materials and Cutting. Step 2: Phase 1 - Assembly. Step 3: Phase 1 - Installation. Step 4: Phase 1 - Miter Saw Dust Collection Area. Step 5: Phase 1 - Dust Box Wings and the Fence. Step 6: Phase 1 Is Complete. Step 7: Phase 2 - Installing Drawer.
Then, I connected the 2×4 to a 2×6 using a line of wood glue and 2 ½” pocket hole screws.Below are my four legs ready to go!Step 2The next step is building the frames of the table. There will be a top frame and a bottom frame.Cut List for Top Frame. 2 – 2×4 @ 84″. 3 – 2×4 @ 20 ½”Cut List for Bottom Frame. 2 – 2×4 @ 78″. 3 – 2×4 @ 14 ½”I attached each frame using my Kreg Jig again. I added 1 ½” pocket holes to each of my 20 ½” pieces and each of my 14 ½” pieces.They should look a bit like this, below.I attached each of these to the longer boards using 2 ½” pocket hole screws.For each frame you will have one small piece on each end and one in the middle.At this point, both of my frames looked like thisStep 3The next step is attaching the legs to the frames.
I used the 2 ½” wood screws through the back of the bottom frame and into each leg to hold it all in place.Step 4After attaching the four legs to the bottom frame, you are ready for your plywood.I always have the nice guys at The Home Depot make my rip cuts for me. I am typically carting around at least a few of my five kiddos when I run in, so bringing a 4′ x 8′ sheet of plywood home in the car just isn’t that doable.:-)Cut List for Plywood Tops. Top Piece – 24″ x 84″. Bottom Piece – 17 ½” x 78″After attaching the four legs to the bottom frame, I dropped in the first piece of plywood.
I used 1 ¼” brad nails through the top of the plywood and into the frame to hold it in place.Step 5Next, attach the top frame.I also used the wood screws on this part, but I went through the back of the legs and into the top frame.Step 6The final step on the workbench was adding the plywood panel to the top.I used brad nails through the top piece of plywood and into the top of the frame. Easy peasy!Step 7Before moving on to the miter saw station on top, I attached each of my casters to a piece of 2×6 cut to 5″.Then, I just took wood screws through these pieces of wood and into the legs of the table. You now have a rolling workbench!Step 8The miter saw station I built is made specifically to fit my, but you can easily modify it to fit yours!I started by building the fence first.You can use a 1×8 cut into two pieces for this. Mine were 45″ and 14″.
You may need to modify these lengths to fit your saw. I added ¾” pocket holes down one long side of these boards.Step 9Next, I lined them up with the fence of the saw and attached it to the table top using 1 ¼” pocket hole screws.Step 10Next, I measured the height from the top of the workbench to the cutting table of the saw. Mine was 4.625″.If you are making this for a different saw, this is the measurement that is really important! You want your cutting surface to be even with the supports you are building to make sure you get straight cuts.I knew I was going to use ¾” MDF for my wood supports, so I subtracted that thickness, leaving me with 3 ⅞”.
I used my to rip a board of the plywood to this thickness. I then cut that board into 12″ pieces.
I added ¾” pocket holes to one side and bottom of each piece like this!I used 1 ¼” pocket hole screws to attach each piece to the table topAnd to the fence piece I just built.See how they are even??I spaced mine evenly apart, about every 12″. The two pieces to the right of the saw are 8″ apart.Almost done, I promise!;-)Step 11The very final step is adding the MDF board to the top.I cut mine at 40″ for the left side and 8″ for the right side. I did choose to angle these, but that is totally optional!
I used brad nails to hold these top two pieces in place.Whew! Check out a few more final shotsMy saw has a new home, and I am a happy girl!Click to download a printable version of this tutorial.Take a look at more DIY projects here on The Home Depot Blog. And follow our board on Pinterest for more DIY ideas.
Sliding Miter Saw Station Plans
2 Notch BoardsUse a jig saw or similar to cut a 3/4' x 2' notch from the cabinet dividers (see cut diagram). If your saw arm is wider than the saw base when rotated to it largest (smallest) cut angle, then you will need to notch out the 'cabinet side inside' pieces. If necessary, cut a 3' x 2 3/4' notch from the cabinet side inside pieces. If the 'cabinet side inside' pieces are notched, then also cut the angle from the front table. You can match the swing angle of the miter saw to the front table to make sure you give enough room. 7 Attach SideClamp a top support (2 3/4') piece to the top of the 'cabinet side inside'. Use wood glue and 1 1/4' pocket hole screws to attach the cabinet top and bottom assembly to the 'cabinet side inside'.
Mobile Miter Saw Station Plans
Drill pocket holes in both ends and long side of the cabinet top support pieces. Use wood glue and 1 1/4' pocket hole screws and place under back of cabinet top and in notched area of cabinet divider. (It will be inset 1/4').
Sliding Miter Saw Station
If desired, add 4 swivel casters. I used scrap 3/4' plywood under the casters to mount to the bottom of the cabinet with 4 - 1 1/4' screws. 10 Install Table and FenceIf your saw needs space to swing the arm, make sure the front table notch is on the side where the miter saw is. Use wood glue and 1 1/4' minimum length brad nails and attach the front table to the top of the cabinet sides and top supports.
The front and sides of the front table piece should all be flush. Use wood glue and 1 1/4' minimum brad nails to attach the fence vertically to the back of the front table piece.
Use wood glue and 1 1/4' minimum brad nails to attach the back table to the fence and the cabinet sides and top supports. Reviews:.April 19, 2019Similar to mine.nice plan - This plan is very similar to the one I built. This differences are in:+ Drawers instead of cabinets+ Mine has a flat top for being able to use th- esarks.December 10, 2018Great weekend project - I had three sheets of pre finished maple plywood taking up space in the shop so I converted it into this rolling miter saw station. The clear cut list- aerobuild.March 31, 2018Mitre saw stand - Good plan easy to follow.- jason lee.August 24, 2017Muy bueno - Excelente proyecto- galo rashid.